Trip to Peru IV
One of the most interesting places I had the opportunity to visit was Paracas, located along the southwestern coastline. Travelling from Lima to this region was quite an awesome experience. The drive lasted roughly 3 hours and 45 minutes, and on the way, there was quite a lot to see. One of the most interesting things that linger in my mind is the acres and acres of squatters we saw along the desert. [photo A & B]
Their houses were 4 walls made of a straw like material and no visible roof was seen. From a distance it looked like just a little box. There were no toilet facilities or running water visible…and all these “houses” were put up in the desert. [photo C]
This desert which extends 2,270 km along Peru’s entire coast is a northward continuation of the Atacama Desert of Chile. In its own way, the desert had an extraordinary beauty with the sand dunes gently running for miles and miles. The variety of the reddish shades of the sand provided yet another fascinating feature that immediately caught the eye. (Be warned therefore that lots of photos of “sand” were taken in attempt to capture this intriguing geographical formation). It is interesting to note however that the desert is so dry that only 10 of the 52 rivers draining the Andean slopes to the Pacific have sufficient volume to maintain their flow across the desert and reach the coast. Despite the presence of the desert along the coast, it was worth noting that the coast is the economic centre of Peru because most of their commercial and export crops are produced in the 40 oases of the region. On one of the hills there was an Indian head carved into the rock. Being quite the tourist, we all suspected it was a replica from the Incas, only to be told that it is a “work in progress” being done by a Peruvian artist. [photo D]
On the way to Paracas, we passed through Chincha. Chincha is a place that has a hot tropical climate, and the habitants look very much like us Caribbean folk. (It is no wonder then that when we were walking through Lima people asked us if we were Chinchanas). Chincha is a small, quiet, dusty town. I did notice though that a lot of grapes were being grown in the area and at the front of almost every house, there was a grape vine that grew all the way to the top of the roof.
We had stopped briefly to visit with the locals and had the opportunity to see a dance by a well known family in the area. The boys certainly tried hard to contain themselves after seeing the movements of the girls! It was interesting to see, but I have to admit, it’s nothing new to us here in the Caribbean. [photos E & F]
One of the most magnificent attractions in this region is the Candelabrum which is a mysterious geoglyph on a sand hill in Paracas. Legend has it that it was made by pirates during initiation rites. The truth may very well lie on that fine line separating legend from history. To view this attraction, one has to take a boat and sail across the icy cold aquamarine waters of the pacific.
Personally speaking, this geoglyph seems a little too well done to be myth or legend. One of my friends has the theory that every night somebody goes up there and does “touch ups” on the artwork. Hmmm…. Very very possible. [photo G]
A little further beyond these sand dunes are the Ballestas Islands which is home to a variety of sea lions and birds, including penguins. [photo H]
Upon approaching the islands, one instantly becomes drowned by the crescendo of the hundreds of birds flying about. It is quite an experience going around the islets to capture glimpses of the sea lions sprawled out lazily on rocks. Occasionally it was possible to see families of seals together. [photos I & J]
In one instance, we were lucky enough to be chosen by one of the larger sea lions to see a show. This sea lion struck a pose and as if to ensure the cameras got him from all angles, slowly, yet ever so elegantly, dived into the water. [photo K]
The downside to the beauty of the islands and the life forms present there, was the stench that was emitted from all the droppings. (Incidentally, we were told by the guide that the droppings are collected every so often and sold as fertilizer. This would explain the wooden framework seen atop the rocks). [photo L]
Oh, and seeing that it was an open boat, it came as no surprise that since hundreds of birds were flying overhead, one or two were BOUND to bless some of the people in the boat! And what do ya know… so said, so done!
Another very interesting feature of these islands is “The Cathedral”. This rock formation resembling a church was formed by years of waves lashing against the rocks.[photo M: by Joe Taves]
After viewing these islands and the creatures residing there, the boat headed back for shore. The sea looked amazingly beautiful with its aquamarine waters. It was so beautiful that I just had to attempt touching it… after all, it is NOT an everyday event to touch the waters of the Pacific! The water was icy cold, but that came as no surprise with the cold blasts of sea air hitting my face from the moment the boat sailed. The captain of the boat, I must admit, seemed to be in an awful rush to get back onshore. He literally flew over the water and refused to slow down. With the backwash from the boat, the folks seated at the back in particular were drenched to their bare essentials. Those two Italians huddled in the back must surely have thought the Sea was conspiring against them. [photos N & P & Q]
Once we got back on land, it was time for lunch. There is a series of stalls with craftwork and souvenirs, and restaurants lining the waterfront. Everything one wanted was right there. The food I have to admit was pretty interesting, and very affordable. [photo R]
On the topic of food, Peruvian food is interesting. Their food is a combination of Spanish and Andean foods with influences from the Africans and Arabs. Along the coastline, there is a wide variety of seafood. The most popular dish is called “Ceviche”; raw fish marinated in lemon, onion, salt and chili. Some of the other dishes include Rocoto Relleno (seedless bell pepper stuffed with meat, egg and peanuts); Chupe de Camarones (prawns cooked with vegetables,yellow potato and milk); Escabeche de Pescado (Fried fish with an onion sauce, chili and spices); Tiradito (strips of raw fish marinated in lemon juice and chili); and Tamales (maize dough stuffed with pork and/or chicken meat, and bears a likeness to the pastel) to name a few. [photo S: by Joe Taves]
And how can one mention food and omit beverages? The most popular drink in Peru is the Inca Kola. This is a soft drink which is actually more popular than the internationally renowned Coca Cola. Filled in either glass or plastic bottles, the drink is a golden yellow and the bottle bears a dark blue label. Looking at it from a tourist’s point of view, I am tempted to call it “the drink of the Gods.” Apart from soft drinks however, the country is a wine producer (hence the acres of grapes on the way to Paracas). [photo T]
next: part V...return to Miraflores
Their houses were 4 walls made of a straw like material and no visible roof was seen. From a distance it looked like just a little box. There were no toilet facilities or running water visible…and all these “houses” were put up in the desert. [photo C]
This desert which extends 2,270 km along Peru’s entire coast is a northward continuation of the Atacama Desert of Chile. In its own way, the desert had an extraordinary beauty with the sand dunes gently running for miles and miles. The variety of the reddish shades of the sand provided yet another fascinating feature that immediately caught the eye. (Be warned therefore that lots of photos of “sand” were taken in attempt to capture this intriguing geographical formation). It is interesting to note however that the desert is so dry that only 10 of the 52 rivers draining the Andean slopes to the Pacific have sufficient volume to maintain their flow across the desert and reach the coast. Despite the presence of the desert along the coast, it was worth noting that the coast is the economic centre of Peru because most of their commercial and export crops are produced in the 40 oases of the region. On one of the hills there was an Indian head carved into the rock. Being quite the tourist, we all suspected it was a replica from the Incas, only to be told that it is a “work in progress” being done by a Peruvian artist. [photo D]
On the way to Paracas, we passed through Chincha. Chincha is a place that has a hot tropical climate, and the habitants look very much like us Caribbean folk. (It is no wonder then that when we were walking through Lima people asked us if we were Chinchanas). Chincha is a small, quiet, dusty town. I did notice though that a lot of grapes were being grown in the area and at the front of almost every house, there was a grape vine that grew all the way to the top of the roof.
We had stopped briefly to visit with the locals and had the opportunity to see a dance by a well known family in the area. The boys certainly tried hard to contain themselves after seeing the movements of the girls! It was interesting to see, but I have to admit, it’s nothing new to us here in the Caribbean. [photos E & F]
One of the most magnificent attractions in this region is the Candelabrum which is a mysterious geoglyph on a sand hill in Paracas. Legend has it that it was made by pirates during initiation rites. The truth may very well lie on that fine line separating legend from history. To view this attraction, one has to take a boat and sail across the icy cold aquamarine waters of the pacific.
Personally speaking, this geoglyph seems a little too well done to be myth or legend. One of my friends has the theory that every night somebody goes up there and does “touch ups” on the artwork. Hmmm…. Very very possible. [photo G]
A little further beyond these sand dunes are the Ballestas Islands which is home to a variety of sea lions and birds, including penguins. [photo H]
Upon approaching the islands, one instantly becomes drowned by the crescendo of the hundreds of birds flying about. It is quite an experience going around the islets to capture glimpses of the sea lions sprawled out lazily on rocks. Occasionally it was possible to see families of seals together. [photos I & J]
In one instance, we were lucky enough to be chosen by one of the larger sea lions to see a show. This sea lion struck a pose and as if to ensure the cameras got him from all angles, slowly, yet ever so elegantly, dived into the water. [photo K]
The downside to the beauty of the islands and the life forms present there, was the stench that was emitted from all the droppings. (Incidentally, we were told by the guide that the droppings are collected every so often and sold as fertilizer. This would explain the wooden framework seen atop the rocks). [photo L]
Oh, and seeing that it was an open boat, it came as no surprise that since hundreds of birds were flying overhead, one or two were BOUND to bless some of the people in the boat! And what do ya know… so said, so done!
Another very interesting feature of these islands is “The Cathedral”. This rock formation resembling a church was formed by years of waves lashing against the rocks.[photo M: by Joe Taves]
After viewing these islands and the creatures residing there, the boat headed back for shore. The sea looked amazingly beautiful with its aquamarine waters. It was so beautiful that I just had to attempt touching it… after all, it is NOT an everyday event to touch the waters of the Pacific! The water was icy cold, but that came as no surprise with the cold blasts of sea air hitting my face from the moment the boat sailed. The captain of the boat, I must admit, seemed to be in an awful rush to get back onshore. He literally flew over the water and refused to slow down. With the backwash from the boat, the folks seated at the back in particular were drenched to their bare essentials. Those two Italians huddled in the back must surely have thought the Sea was conspiring against them. [photos N & P & Q]
Once we got back on land, it was time for lunch. There is a series of stalls with craftwork and souvenirs, and restaurants lining the waterfront. Everything one wanted was right there. The food I have to admit was pretty interesting, and very affordable. [photo R]
On the topic of food, Peruvian food is interesting. Their food is a combination of Spanish and Andean foods with influences from the Africans and Arabs. Along the coastline, there is a wide variety of seafood. The most popular dish is called “Ceviche”; raw fish marinated in lemon, onion, salt and chili. Some of the other dishes include Rocoto Relleno (seedless bell pepper stuffed with meat, egg and peanuts); Chupe de Camarones (prawns cooked with vegetables,yellow potato and milk); Escabeche de Pescado (Fried fish with an onion sauce, chili and spices); Tiradito (strips of raw fish marinated in lemon juice and chili); and Tamales (maize dough stuffed with pork and/or chicken meat, and bears a likeness to the pastel) to name a few. [photo S: by Joe Taves]
And how can one mention food and omit beverages? The most popular drink in Peru is the Inca Kola. This is a soft drink which is actually more popular than the internationally renowned Coca Cola. Filled in either glass or plastic bottles, the drink is a golden yellow and the bottle bears a dark blue label. Looking at it from a tourist’s point of view, I am tempted to call it “the drink of the Gods.” Apart from soft drinks however, the country is a wine producer (hence the acres of grapes on the way to Paracas). [photo T]
next: part V...return to Miraflores
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