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"The world is not what I think, but what I live through." ~ Maurice Merleau-Ponty

Friday, March 11, 2005

Trip to Peru I

I recently returned from a short trip to Peru on the South American continent. It was part of a project organized by a teacher of the Spanish department to allow fifth form students to USE the language and have as much practice as possible before their exams in May. The following is an attempt to share my experiences and opinions on this captivating country called Peru.

Located on the South American continent, Peru is an extremely enchanting place…full of warmth, passion and artistry and very rich in history.

The population of the country is about 27,148,101 people. To the North, Peru shares a border with Ecuador and to the North and North East with Columbia, to the East with Brazil and to the South east with Bolivia, to the South with Chile, and to the West it meets the Pacific Ocean.

Historically, Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535. It was used as the hub of activity because of its strategic location and main port (Callao) along the coast. It had become the main source of Spanish wealth and power in South America, and throughout the country, there are vivid reminders of the colonial era. Today, Lima is not only the capital of the country, but it has become the economic and political centre of the country and within it, resides 30 % of the country’s population. It is said that almost half of the country’s population is pure Indian, descendents of the Incas who had ruled before the conquest of the Spaniards in the 16th century. The official languages are Spanish and Quechua (with Aimara and other aboriginal languages found in certain regions). The main religion in the country is Roman Catholicism.

The country’s flag is divided into three columns with red on both ends and a strip of white in the middle. There is an interesting story that precedes the flag as it is today. On October 21st 1820, the Peruvian national flag was created. The design was modified on March 15th 1822 because it posed major problems to manufacturers and because of the likeness to the Spanish flag. On May 31st 1822 it was again changed to the design it portrays today with two red outer strips and a white inner strip containing the country’s coat of arms. The coat of arms portrays a shield showing a vicuna, a cinchona tree and a yellow cornucopia spilling out gold coins. A green wreath is placed atop the shield.

The country’s national flower is La Cantuta (Cantuta buxifolia) which was greatly admired during the times of the Incas and was used in their rituals and ceremonies. It is also known as the “Flower of the Inca”. It was used to protect the cranium of the dead for it was believed that the flower guarded the essential waters to quench thirst during the after-life journey.

The country thrives on Tourism and they do have a lot to offer to the world, from the Incan legacies to the Nazca mysteries, from the architectural wonders to the pockets of natural beauty seen in the many parks… There is a lot to do and see and no day spent in the capital can ever go to waste, for even a walk outside the place of lodging presents a world of possibilities and images to relish.

On the very day we arrived, we were all eager to go exploring the city. We managed to get a city tour arranged and our guide David was a most pleasant informant.

One of the first stops was at Huaca Pucllana where archaeologists were in the process of unearthing the remains of an Incan temple. The first thing that was noticeable upon entry was the Peruvian dogs roaming the site. These dogs looked very much akin to the ones seen in the “Mad Max” movies…hairless dogs with blondish Mohawks.

As we went further into the area, there was a temple that was unearthed and maintained for tourism. There was a trap on the ground with the skeletal remains of a person bound by a piece of rope. David explained that human sacrifices were carried out and they were usually the virgin women who were sacrificed to the Gods. (Were the feminists asleep during all this??!!)

During the tour, we also passed through this amazingly beautiful part of the city where over 200 olive trees were planted. The guide referred to this as the “Olive Grove” and it served as a backdrop to well-kept colonial houses and maintained the balance between architecture and nature.

As the tour continued we had the opportunity to visit the Iglesia de San Francisco. This church is a spectacular architectural piece. The frontispiece of the church displays intricately designed artistry, and as proof of how well it has been preserved, it still remains intact after all these years.

Inside the church, there was a lot to peruse. One of the things we were privy to see was one of the world’s oldest libraries, with some of the first books ever written. The library area was blocked off and some of the books were strictly prohibited from being touched. David informed us that only a select group of people were permitted to enter and use the library. And this permission had to come from very high authorities. Right at the entrance where the blockade started, there was a huge book displayed, and the writing was done entirely by hand and it was written in Latin. Unfortunately, in an effort to maintain the quality of these treasures, no photographs were allowed since we were told that the flash damages the pictures and sculptures.

After leaving the library, as we walked along the corridors, there were incredible pictures painted on the ceiling. The ceiling was made of wood and was very well maintained. All along the walls, there were paintings and Spanish tiles that were said to have been brought from Spain. I do have a picture of one of the sculpted pieces with Spanish tiles lining the bottom (a forbidden picture I must say, for I had forgotten the warning to NOT take photos unless your camera had NO flash. But really…a flash - less camera!!???)

Going further inside the church, we came to one of the main rooms where there was an intriguing display dedicated to saints. Each engraving paid homage to a different saint, and on the artwork, it was clearly visible how they each met their end. The priest, who was burnt for instance, was seen holding a flame. The priest who was beheaded was holding his head, and so forth. While inspecting the details of these displays, I happened to casually glance at the floor and I noticed that there were little openings blocked with a small iron bar. Through the spaces, the darkness made it impossible to discern what could be down there. My curiosity started to grow…and so did that of the students.

As if reading our minds though, David escorted us down some stairs into the darkness. Little by little, our eyes grew accustomed to the dim lighting beneath the church. As we dutifully followed our guide, we came to a section that seemed to be made of adobe. The floor was clay and the lighting could have made the difference on whether or not somebody got a heart attack… As we followed the guide, we came to a pathway that was lined on both sides by narrow rectangular holes.

When we looked in…what we saw was human skeletal remains! Had the lights gone at any point in time, I am certain the students would have screamed for dear life! Some of the boxes had bones, others had skulls. We had entered the underground catacombs of the church. These remains were said to have been of the people who wanted to be buried according to religious rites but at the time, the colonial masters had forbidden it so it was done beneath the church in clandestine fashion. We were also told that because of the number of people who had to be buried, space was a prohibiting factor, and for this reason, bodies were placed one on top the next. What were very noticeable as well were the many exits that lined the catacombs. Maybe they all made for easy escape for the priests should anybody unauthorized person come beneath the church. When we had gone to the far end of the tunnel, we came to a huge well. Inside, was a circular pattern of skulls. Sensing our awe at the precision of the circle, David made it clear to us that the bones and skulls were “prettied up” for cosmetic effect for tourism. As we retraced our steps and got ready to leave the tunnels, an instinctive look at a movement overhead showed that directly above us, was the very room dedicated to the saints. So THIS is what had beckoned in the darkness below!!



[see pictures above]

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